Amidst my day-to-day hustle being the Broker-In-Charge on the North Shore of Kauai, I wanted to take a moment and share a piece of my personal life with everyone. Well, more so my husband’s life, and what he does for our daughter and her friends. You see…he’s a surfer.
What Defines a Surfer?
The word ‘surfer’ has many interpretations, depending on who’s doing the defining. Most casual onlookers in life see surfers as either mellow ocean-dwellers participating in recreational fun with some degree of regularity.
While this may be true at the surface, anyone who’s lived with a surfer may have come to know a more acute understanding of what it’s all about, which runs at a much deeper current.
“Hey Isabella, sometimes you have to watch with more than your eyes…you have to ‘feel it’, but watching with your eyes is a good place to start”
For many, surfing is a perpetual pursuit (read: obsession), which seems to operate outside the realm of logic at times. Spending 98% of the time bobbing in the water, or paddling around to get in position to spend the remaining 2% riding a wave…on a good day.
All the while navigating social dynamics in the lineup that the majority of the times manifest themselves in the form of silent subtle gestures. Sounds like a blast! But anyone who’s ridden a wave and been bitten by that bug knows, it actually is a blast.
Passing along the Passion
So knowing just how dedicated (again, read: obsessed) my husband, Jack, is to this pursuit, I am that much more touched to see his desire and effort to pass along this passion to our daughter, Isabella, and her friends.
Boards go on, boards go off, boards go back on, every session
Jack takes the girls surfing at the crack of dawn, hauls the boards around, provides hot water for post-surf rinse-offs, brings snacks to munch on to keep energy levels — and moods 🙂 ‑ high, all the while taking them to a variety of spots around the whole island and discussing the ins and outs of each spot and how each particular wave breaks. What a dad he is!
S T O K E D !
For anybody who knows what it’s like to have a hero, here is mine. My surfer hero.
Daddy and his little surfer girl!
Me and my surfer hero!